Tracking the Salt Spring Trace

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4–6 minutes

Boonesborough, Kentucky’s sec­ond old­est Euro-American set­tle­ment, was estab­lished in the year 1775 by Col. Richard Henderson’s Transylvania Company.  Daniel Boone led a par­ty of road cut­ters through the Cumberland Gap into Kentucky.  They reached the mouth of Otter Creek in present-day Madison County on April 6, 1775.  The men set about clear­ing ground and build­ing a fort.  Food sup­plies were lim­it­ed, so high pri­or­i­ty was giv­en to hunting.

Kentucky was blessed with an abun­dance of wild game at that time.  Although deer, bear, and turkey were plen­ti­ful, hunters espe­cial­ly sought out buf­fa­lo for its meat and hide.  Buffalo tend­ed to gath­er at Kentucky’s many salt licks, which made these favored hunt­ing spots.  These licks also pro­vid­ed a valu­able source of salt, crit­i­cal for pre­serv­ing meat.  The most notable hunt­ing spot for the Boonesborough pio­neers was the Lower Blue Licks, about 45 miles from Boonesborough on the Licking River.

Numerous buf­fa­lo traces led to Lower Blue Licks.  The largest of these “buf­fa­lo roads” ran from Lexington to the lick and then on to Limestone (now Maysville).  Pioneers called this the “Big Buffalo Road,” and it became the basis for present-day US 68.

More impor­tant to res­i­dents at Boonesborough was a buf­fa­lo trace that led up Lower Howard’s Creek and tied into the Big Buffalo Road about eight miles west of Lower Blue Licks.  Native Americans had long used the trail, and the men at Fort Boonesborough dis­cov­ered it short­ly after their arrival.  As described by William Bush, one of Boone’s road cutters:

“I have been acquaint­ed with the low­er Salt Spring trace ever since the Spring of the year 1775 and it leads from Boonsborough to Howards creek and to the said Indian encamp­ments and crossed the north fork [of Lower Howard’s Creek] about thir­ty or forty yards above the mouth of said north fork, thence up the north fork…and on to the low­er blue Licks.”

The many criss­cross­ing buf­fa­lo roads made it dif­fi­cult for hunters to fol­low the trail.  To solve that prob­lem, Robert McMillan and his broth­er marked the route.  McMillan stat­ed in a depo­si­tion that he “came to Kentucky in the lat­ter part of the sum­mer 1775 and set­tled at Boonsborough in the same year.  And on the last day of 1775 and the first day of 1776, he and his broth­er [James] marked the trace from the low­er blue lick to Boonsborough.”

Route of the Salt Spring Trace through Clark County.
Route of the Salt Spring Trace through Clark County. (Submitted)

The sur­vey­or Enoch Smith claimed that Salt Spring Trace was one of the ear­li­est marked roads in Kentucky:

“In the year 1775, he came to this coun­try in com­pa­ny with colonel Henderson and set­tled at Boonsborough and remained in this coun­try the greater part of that sum­mer.  One of the first or near­ly the first of the roads that was marked was the road lead­ing from Boonsborough to the low­er Salt Spring on Licking and was known by the name of the Hunters road or the trace to the Lower salt spring and was a road of as much noto­ri­ety as any in the country.”

The jour­ney from Boonesborough to Lower Blue Lick began by climb­ing the hill west of the fort and fol­low­ing the ridge­line before descend­ing to the riv­er, oppo­site the mouth of Lower Howard’s Creek.  An his­toric ford crossed the Kentucky River there.  In September 1778, Shawnee chief Blackfish led an army of 400 Shawnee, Cherokee, and Wyandot war­riors and 40 French-Canadians to besiege Boonesborough.  One of the pio­neers described the route Blackfish’s army took to the fort:

“Just below Boonesborough, at what twas called Blackfish’s ford, Blackfish crossed the riv­er, marched round the hill above the fort, and struck down the British col­ors at the edge of that Big bot­tom, right oppo­site to the fort, at the foot of the hill.  A rocky ford.”

Blackfish Ford was a not­ed low-water cross­ing place on Kentucky River until 1903, when water lev­els were dra­mat­i­cal­ly altered by the Corps of Engineers’ con­struc­tion of the lock and dam at Valley View.

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From the ford, Salt Spring Trace fol­lowed a buf­fa­lo road up Lower Howard’s Creek to the con­flu­ence of the North Fork near a site pio­neers referred to as the Indian Camp.  This was where Blackfish’s army camped the night before the great siege in September 1778.  Jesse Hodges, who was present at the siege, lat­er answered ques­tions about the camp dur­ing a deposition:

“Do you know of any place called and known by the name of the Indian Camp on or near the said Salt Spring trace in the years 1779 or 1780?”

“Yes.  Below the junc­tion of the north fork and Howard’s Creek and between Major John Wilkerson’s Mill dam and Mill where the army of Indians camped in 1778 before the siege of Boonsborough which was the largest Indian encamp­ment I ever saw on Howard’s creek.”

The Indian encamp­ment was in the bot­tom land below the present reser­voir on Lettie Lane.  In the course of a law­suit, William Sudduth sur­veyed the Salt Spring Trace near the Indian Camp.  His map shows the trace cross­ing North Fork near the Indian Camp then run­ning up the east side of the fork all the way to its head­wa­ters.  The low­er end of the North Fork is sub­merged today by WMU’s reser­voir.  According to long­time coun­ty res­i­dent Doug Oliver, an old road along the North Fork is still in place under the water.  Doug recalls when the reser­voir was drained to build the new dam in 1984, a deeply rut­ted road and stone fence beside it were uncov­ered.  This was no doubt a rem­nant of the Salt Spring Trace.

At the head­wa­ters of North Fork, the trace passed over the divid­ing ridge between the drainage of Kentucky River and the drainage of Licking River.  The trace next crossed Hancock Creek, passed through the “Fallen Timber” and the “Sycamore Forest,” then crossed Johnson Creek before strik­ing Strodes Creek in Bourbon County.

The Salt Spring Trace, like many of Kentucky’s ear­ly land­marks, has dis­ap­peared into the mists of time.

Kentucky Historical Marker for the Salt Spring Trace, installed in 2018.
Kentucky Historical Marker for the Salt Spring Trace, installed in 2018. (Submitted)

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